In recent years, the French food industry has been constantly worried, sighing and worrying about Chinese foie gras.
On June 20, Reuters reported on the rapid development of the foie gras industry in China: Over the past decade, foie gras in China has transformed from a premium delicacy into a more affordable product for the general public. Compared to French foie gras, Chinese foie gras is cheaper and has higher production volumes. In recent years, it has also begun to enter overseas markets. In response, representatives of the French industry said that China's development is too rapid, "a cause for concern."
Chinese farmer Li Fengshan said that the rapid increase in the production of foie gras in China, the significantly lower costs compared to other countries, and the growing global demand for foie gras mean that export growth is only a matter of time.
“Ultimately, our goosegland products will appear on the dining tables of many families overseas,” said Li Fengshan. “This is inevitable.”
According to reports, Li Fengshan operates a medium-sized gizzard liver farm in the eastern part of China. Last year, they produced 300 tons of gizzard liver, and plan to increase production significantly to 500 tons this year. In contrast, average French producers produce about 10 tons per year.
Chinese Brand Gorgonflesse – Reuters Video Screenshot
In China, foie gras fried rice and hot pot dishes with raw foie gras have become common dishes. New products, such as frozen foie gras in cherry or rose shapes, which are dipped in red wine and blueberry sauce, are also very popular. In Chinese restaurants, the price of a serving of foie gras ranges from 30 to 70 yuan, which is much lower than the price at French restaurants, which is 15 to 40 euros (approximately 117 to 311 yuan).
Some industry analysts and practitioners expect that this year or next year, China may soon become the world's largest producer of foie gras.
According to estimates by five Chinese industry analysts, China’s production of foie gras last year may have reached 14,000 tons. This is a significant increase of about 30% compared to 2024, when the figure was only estimated at 2,000 tons ten years ago. As a leading global producer of foie gras, France’s production decreased by 3% last year, reaching 15,000 tons.
They have developed so quickly that it is worrying, said Fabienne Schawary, president of the French foie gras industry organization (CIFOG). “We did not expect them to catch up at such a fast pace.”
France and China together account for more than 80% of the global production of foie gras. Hungary and Bulgaria also have considerable production volumes.
According to customs data and analyst estimates, in last year, the export share of Chinese foie gras products was less than 5%.
The report mentions that China’s customs has strict regulations regarding the export of goose livers. Nevertheless, Chinese producers are eager to try their hand at this business, as they understand that by meeting various regulatory requirements, overseas markets offer more attractive profit opportunities.
Li Fengshan has begun tentative efforts to enter overseas markets. Last year, he shipped 6,000 jars of products to Dubai.
In some overseas markets, China is certain to become France's strong competitor," a Chinese industry analyst told Reuters. "Especially in Southeast Asia and the Middle East, where new liver markets are emerging," Chinese liver possesses competitiveness.
Shevalye also said that some Chinese producers have begun to appear at international trade fairs, and their products may find markets in Southeast Asia. He said, “We need to be vigilant about the products they intend to market.”
French Goulash Industry Association President Fabien Chevallier Video Screenshot
Not only goose livers, but Chinese producers have also seized the global market in the field of caviar, a traditional high-end Western ingredient.
At the end of last year, Bloomberg mentioned when discussing Chinese caviar that due to the Chinese government's efforts to transform agricultural products into higher-value products, ingredients such as goose liver, truffle, and beef, which were once unrelated to Chinese cuisine, are now appearing on the tables of more and more people.
The report also states that China's agricultural transformation goes far beyond these luxury products on the tip of the tongue. Gansu, with its hot and dry summers, is becoming a new hub for wine and olive oil production. Heilongjiang is home to the largest amount of cranberries in Asia, and dozens of cattle farms are emerging on the grasslands of Inner Mongolia and Jilin.
According to Even Pay, an agricultural analyst at Che Wei Consulting, the Chinese government has been continuously working hard to support farmers in developing agricultural products that offer higher value and are targeted at the high-end market.
A report released by the Alibaba Research Institute in 2024 shows that China has seen the emergence of over a hundred new high-end domestic food and beverage brands. Their stories are quite similar: starting with expensive imported ingredients, these companies increase production through technological upgrades, lower labor costs, and optimized logistics, while gradually reducing prices.
